Halloween

November 3, 2007 at 10:28 pm | Posted in culture, South Korea | Leave a comment
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Although Halloween is not celebrated in Korea, for me the preparations and celebrations went on for a whole week. It started with shopping on friday. We went to Dongdaemun in search of a wholesale shoe market – which we never actually found – but there were more than enough other stalls and shops open that we stayed out shopping until 4am (night-time shopping is a whole story in itself, but I won’t go into that now)!

However, we could not find the elusive bow and arrow that Kat needed to complete her outfit, nor could I find the right pair of boots to complete my owl-look, so we were forced to go shopping on saturday as well. There was a special Halloween shop in Sadang (not surprisingly called ‘Halloween’) but alas, they still did not have what we were looking for…so…we changed our plan and decided to dress as the complementary act of Good and Evil. So it was back to Dongdaemun and Doota department store for a dress to match my black wings and boots for Kat’s angelic look. And some toy guns so we could act out the Eternal Battle brought up-to-date in the 21st century.

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We got some amazing looks during the hour long subway ride to the party in Gangnam. One old man even took photos. It’s times like these that I really wish I spoke Korean! But I can say with all modesty, we did have the best costumes.

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After the Gangnam party ended we headed to Itaewon where every foreigner in Seoul had decided to go that evening. Strangely, we had trouble getting there since no taxis were willing to stop for us. It might have had something to do with us brandishing replica guns or the trailing toilet paper from the mummies’ costumes. I decided to take my wings off on the way home so I had no trouble with taxis then. Unfortunately I had to carry them on the subway on sunday morning while I went to pick up my shopping from Kat’s, who lives all the way on the other side of Seoul. By this point they, and I, were a little worse for wear so it wasn’t surprising the Koreans mistook me for a Russian.

We spent the rest of the weekend drying off (after getting caught in a downpour on the way back from Hwagyesa) in Kat’s apartment eating fried chicken, reminiscing about Cardiff and wondering how we managed to study in the same building at the same university at the same time without meeting each other before Seoul. It was very unzen-like.

By monday I’d had quite enough of Halloween. But the kids at school hadn’t and they were already attempting ‘trick or treat’. Come wednesday all the teachers had bags full of candy at the ready. It was fine teaching them for their first lesson of the day, but by the end they were bouncing up the walls with the amount of sugar they consumed!

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Only one of classes dressed up. I’ve only been teaching these lot for a couple of weeks. And they never sit still normally, let alone when they’re on a sugar high. But they’d gone all out with the costumes and the little girl in white had even brought her own bag of candy to hand out to everyone. I think she hadn’t quite understood the concept!

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And then of course I had to do it all over again on the 1st for the classes that I didn’t teach on wednesday! But it was worth it. We were talking about magic bags and they said “We’d put Rosie teacher in our bag so we’d always have her to give us candy”!

The Meaning of Life and Chocolate Pizza

October 24, 2007 at 12:10 am | Posted in heritage sites, South Korea | Leave a comment
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Sunday I got up (relatively) early and made my way to Bukhansan National Park which is on the northern outskirts of Seoul. My friend Kat (another British ESL teacher) who lives near there showed me around. Whilst we sat watching the chipmunks and munching our bagels and cream cheese we both agreed it’s very handy being able to take a subway right up to the wilderness! You can’t hear the city at all when you’re in the forest and yet you can see the buildings stretching out below (oh how I wish it were so easy to get away from it all in London). The autumn colours had not really started coming out yet, so I am looking forward to that soon.

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We went hiking for a few hours and then returned to Hwagyesa temple where we attended the Sunday Dharma which is given in English. This was an interesting experience as I had no idea what to expect, but I liked the informality of it. Everyone sat on mats on the floor in a semi-circle, and listened to two monks. They were both quite interesting people, one from Serbia and one from New York (who had left his family to become a monk, but still kept in touch with them). They talked about one of the old masters and in particular his life towards the end whilst he was ill. It was peppered with anecdotes and little bits of philosophy and reminded me very much of when you sit around with your mates in the pub chatting about the meaning of life – except it was much more relaxed, of course! I think the hike had a lot to do with it, as I was really quite tired from that and could have just sat out in the sun and snoozed.

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After the talk there was a question and answer session. Most of what the monks said was ‘well that’s life’. It seems some people just didn’t get it, even though they were already practicing Buddhists; one woman was insistent that they could tell her how long she would need to meditate in order for it to have an effect on her life – she couldn’t comprehend that you can’t aim for an effect, it just happens. Or at least that’s what the monks were saying.

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Since I’ve got nothing to compare this to, I don’t know how typical an experience it is. But it was nice to just sit in such a calming atmosphere. And the seating mats were super comfy – I might have to look into buying one for my apartment. Although I’d need the ‘white person’s cushion’ to go with it as us westerners aren’t used to sitting up straight for long periods of time so we need that extra support for our back!

Afterwards I went back to Kat’s apartment (of which I am incredibly jealous as it has floor to ceiling windows and a gorgeous view, not to mention being in a generally well-kept state, unlike mine which is probably in the oldest building in Seoul) and ate spicy chicken on a stick from a street stall. Then we went to Myeongdong for dinner with a friend of Kat’s. We found an Italian place that looked authentic and was playing entertaining music (including a jazz-ragtime instrumental version of ‘I Only Wanna Be With You’!). There was a good choice of appetizing pizza and pasta, but as soon as I saw the words ‘chocolate pizza‘ I knew what I had to go for.

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Ok so my pizza doesn’t look that good in the picture, but it tasted amazing – dark chocolate chips on the base, covered in camembert and sprinkled with pistachios and cashews…..mmm real cheese, decent red wine and chocolate! I love Spannew!! They didn’t even object to our bizarre foreign custom of asking for our pizzas to be served at the same time rather than one after the other (!).

Two Weddings

October 7, 2007 at 1:16 am | Posted in culture, South Korea | Leave a comment
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Today I saw two weddings; a traditional Korean ceremony and a western christian one. My friend Sujin invited me to her father’s friend’s daughter’s wedding (!). It took place in a wedding hall and was pretty much the same as I’m used to (they even played ‘Congratulations’ – in Korean of course!). The main difference was the lack of bridesmaids and the couple bowing – hands and knees on the floor – to their in-laws at the end of the ceremony.
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It seemed quite layed back, with people walking up and down the aisle and talking.
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And then it turned slightly ‘disco’ with flashing coloured lights and party-poppers. Actually, this is how I imagine a theme wedding in Vegas!

After this the couple get changed into traditional costume and go to a small, open-fronted room (to give easier access for photographers?) which is set up for the traditional ceremony where close relatives exchange food and drink with the couple. Sujin and I couldn’t wait so we went straight over and watched a different couple going through the ceremony. They were happy for me to stand and take photos.
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The ducks on the table symobolise the longevity of the relationship. The food all has symbolic meaning as well.
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In Korea you give money rather than buy a present from a wedding list (makes sense to me). You put the money in an envelope with your name on it and hand it in at a desk for which you get buffet vouchers in exchange. So, once we’d finished all the photos we headed upstairs, handed in our vouchers, loaded up our plates and found a seat among long, communal tables.
wedding buffet
The first of several servings! There was such a variety of food – hot and cold dishes, soups, salads, desserts, fruit – I couldn’t believe it. On this plate alone I crammed rice, sweet & sour pork, glass noodles, kimchi, sushi, deep fried sweet potato and seaweed, whole baby octopus, some strange pickled fish, various salad leaves…the list goes on.
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The cakes were less impressive as they had a tendency to taste the same, but they were still yummy. I’d have taken many more than this, but I was already getting some very strange looks from the other guests so I thought I’d leave some for them. They were all surprised that I was a foreigner eating ‘spicy’ food, but it didn’t taste that strong to me anyway. And then someone asked if I was Russian. Apparently there’s quite a few living in Korea. although the only ones I’ve ever heard of are working the red light district!

By the time Sujin and I had finally eaten enough to sate our appetites, everyone else was finished and they were clearing up. Sujin said it’s because Koreans do everything in a rush but foreigners like to take thier time to enjoy food! Afterwards we went browsing in Emart department store. We were there for a few hours so that by the time we made it to the supermarket section we were hungry enough to eat all the sample food they had out; dried squid, fried tofu, small dried fish, fried sausage, coffee, fried ginseng, ginseng in honey, ginseng and milk drink, custard pie! Mmmm….

And then I saw this notebook…..in the childrens’ stationary!
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Happy pills? On closer inspection it said ‘Happy vitamins’ – see the big guy on the left who’s vitamins A, D and E – so not quite as crazy as I thought, but still bizarre. An interesting ending to an interesting day.

Annyong Haseyo!

September 27, 2007 at 9:30 am | Posted in culture, heritage sites, South Korea | Leave a comment
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I’ve been in Seoul for nearly three weeks now. I’m not going to try and describe everything – that’d take far too long. Instead, here are some pictures. This past week has been Chuseok (Harvest Moon Festival) when families get together and traditional ceremonies take place. There were many free events going on around the city: concerts and theatrical performances; workshops in traditional crafts; historical re-enactments etc.

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This sums up Korea so far; kimchi pots, traditional architecture, new construction and people with cameras and umbrellas.

Little Dolls
Little Dolls

Joseon school at Namsangol Hanok Village
Joseon era school at Namsangol Hanok Village


Acrobatics at Deoksugung Palace

There was also less traditional entertainment at City Hall.

I like the way the guy pulling the seating mat slips at the end in time to the musical crescendo.

I really liked the music at this concert. I think it was based on traditional music, but jazzed up a bit.

Maybe it was because of the holiday season, or maybe because I stood out on my own as an obvious foreigner, but everyone was so friendly to me. Some wanted to practice their english, whilst others just wanted to make me feel included. One old man gave some of his food and drink while we sat watching the concert. He didn’t speak a word of english. I tried to imagine this happening in London, but we would never be so hospitable to an outsider.

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